Would it be possible for you to grow a vegetable garden in your backyard? Consider this option, healthy foods just within your reach. Even your children can help and cultivate their own vegetables. Having fun while learning is not a bad idea right? But you have to plan ahead before you start.
Which Veggie?
Plan which vegetables you would like to grow in your garden. Choose early, middle of the season and late kinds of these vegetables, which you like best.
Against all veggie odds
You have to know the odd characteristics of certain vegetables and use them to best advantage. Some vegetables bloom even in partially shaded positions, while others require lots of sunshine.
Goodie veggies
Good vegetables are of exceptionally slow growth during the seedling stage of development. You have to take advantage of this by using space between rows for quick-growing crops. For example, propagate beet seed by the middle of April and position young lettuce plants between the rows.
Don't let the water run dry
Throughout dry periods, vegetable gardens need extra watering. Most vegetables benefit from an inch or more of water each week, especially when they are fruiting.
De-pest the infested
During the growing season be attentive against insect pests. If you discover a bug problem early it will make it much easier to take suitable action and get rid of the pests. But be careful to not use pesticides once the vegetable has grown unless it becomes an absolute necessity. Organic gardening is one healthy and environment-friendly option. Once you have reaped your crop, put the used up vegetable matter into your fertilizer pile so that it can be recycled for next spring.
Animal appeal not needed
It is important to protect your vegetable garden. In most cases, the garden is surrounded by a fence adequately high and close-woven to keep out dogs, rabbits, and other animals. The harm done by wandering animals during a season can equal the cost of a fence. A fence also can serve as a frame for peas, beans, tomatoes, and other crops that need support.
Protection is needed in order for your vegetable garden to yield a bountiful harvest. Hard work would pay off if necessary precaution has been made. Learning is a process, vegetable gardening needs time. See to it you have patience and dedication to it.
One of the most common problems faced by gardeners is one of slugs and snails. Even experienced gardeners tear their collective hair out at the destruction these creatures can cause. So I thought I would give you a few tried and tested tips, and some others perhaps not so well known, to help you deal with them – you won’t get rid of them all together, but at least you will be able to keep them under some sort of control!
They may not all work for you – a lot depends on just how bad the problem is where you live – but it is certainly worth trying some if not all of them.
Barriers:
These methods will be more effective against snails than slugs, as slugs live in the ground and can, therefore, avoid barriers.
On your garden borders, you can use barriers around plants, such as crushed eggshells, grit, bran, or wood-ash or soot. The theory is that slugs and snails are reluctant to cross these materials and will, therefore, wander off elsewhere to look for their next meal. Make sure you put plenty down without any gaps.
Scatter oat bran around your plants – slugs love it, but if they eat enough, they expand and die!
Petroleum jelly smeared thickly around the rims of pots has a similar deterrent effect.
You can purchase copper tape with an adhesive backing, which you can stick around the pot sides – this gives the snail a small electric shock as it tries to cross.
Traps:
Use beer traps – very effective at dealing with both slugs and snails, and you can buy these from a garden centre. Place the trap, filled with cheap beer, in a hole with the top at soil level. You can also use out of date fruit juice, or even milk just about on the turn. Alternatively, make your own by cutting off about 3-4 inches off the base of a plastic drinks bottle.
After eating your half grapefruit, cut a small hole and place the skin upside down on the soil. Slugs love it and will congregate inside and each day you can collect them up.
Collect all the slugs and snails you can find in the late evening when they start to become active and drown them in a bucket of heavily salted water. Plain water will not work – they will simply swim to the surface and crawl out! Or, if you know where they hide out, you can gather them up during the day – try looking under logs or bricks, and shrubs, any dark, damp corner.
And what to do with the slugs you’ve collected? If you put live slugs or snails into your compost heap, they will probably stay there, as there is plenty of matter for them to feast on. You can also put the dead ones in there too, those in the beer traps including the beer – but scoop the dead slugs and snails out of the salty water first.
Predators:
For a biological control, you can use nematodes – microscopic parasites that kill the slugs above and below ground. Obtained from organic garden suppliers, you simply mix the powder with water and spray on to the soil using a watering can. This can be effective for around six weeks.
If you are lucky enough to have space, adopt some chickens or ducks – they just love eating slugs – and you can have some free eggs into the bargain.
Make your garden wildlife friendly, to encourage the natural predators of slugs and snails to come and visit. Dig a pond to encourage frogs and toads; leave out food for hedgehogs, and put up bird feeders. This will not provide an ‘instant fix’ for the problem, but in the long term will give you a healthier garden with fewer pests.
If you are creative, growing the Japanese Maple Bonsai is a great way to make use of your creativity. When growing the Bonsai Tree, you have a variety of choices. The best choice for those who are just beginning to get into this hobby is the Japanese Maple Bonsai.
The Japanese Maple Bonsai Tree is one of the most beautiful and elegant of the Bonsai Trees, and it is easy to grow and hardy. The official name for the beautiful Japanese Maple is Acer Palmatum. This species really is a great first choice for a Bonsai Tree.
The typical outdoor maple grows to be very tall, but when pruned properly they make a great Bonsai Tree.
If you are going to buy a Japanese Maple Bonsai Tree, it is best to purchase one that has a trunk of at least four inches in diameter. With this starter, you can train the tree in a variety of different styles. You may also want to go with the Apex or Taper styles. If this were the case, you would need a Japanese Maple Bonsai that has one to two trunk chops.
Some great advantages to the Japanese Maple Bonsai Tree are that it is one of the more affordable Bonsai Trees, and this tree displays a magnificent array of red and purple foliage during the spring. This type of Bonsai Tree can either be grown from a seed, or you may also choose to buy a starter that is around 4 – 6 inches in height.
In addition to the indoor Japanese Maple Bonsai Tree, there is also a larger variety that may be used for an outdoor garden. One of the best things about this type of Bonsai Tree is that the color of the leaves changes frequently providing colorful and elegant beauty to your garden, indoors or out.
In the spring, the Japanese Maple Bonsai Tree has leaves that are bright red in color, but as they mature, they turn pink. During the summer the leaves take on a green color with pink tinges, and in the fall months, the edges of the leaves turn a dark pink-red color that soon spreads to the whole leaf. When all the leaves have changed, the Japanese Maple Bonsai Tree is solid scarlet, a really superb tree.
The Japanese Maple Bonsai Tree is a great way to start your Bonsai tree collection; it is not only one of the easiest, but one of the most beautiful as well.
Gardening is one of our primordial fascinations. For thousands of years humans have gardened and for most of that time, a major part of our diet came out of our gardens. As we became better at feeding ourselves, we also gained the time to indulge in activities that weren't directly linked to our very survival. Flowers, ornamental shrubs, decorative trees all became a part of gardening for beauty and pleasure.
Water is a source of life. We are actually composed of 50 to 70 percent water and without water, we can die in hours or a few days - far faster than from lack of food. Throughout history, water has been a necessity, even a source of warfare. We find comfort insights and sounds associated with water, whether the source is the sea, a lake, river, stream or pond. I believe that the sense of comfort and relaxation most of us feel around water is deeply embedded in our being.
Water gardens of various kinds have a long history. From elaborate fountains with statuary to the simplest aquarium (yes, I include aquariums as a form of water garden despite the usual focus on the critters rather than the overall concept), water gardening is an ancient activity.
Currently, water gardening is considered a new trend for some reason. I'd guess this has to do partly with advances in technology, the widening availability of pre-constructed ponds and pumping systems, a growing awareness of the alternative forms gardens can take, and the fact that presenting something as new and trendy often improves sales.
Water gardening can be done using waterfalls and streams, ponds, fountains, and containers of various kinds some of which are as simple as a small indoor fountain with a recycling pump. The variety goes on and on and most can be further enhanced through using rock work combinations, various types of lighting both above and below the water surface (or behind a waterfall), plants, and, of course, fish or other water dwellers.
Water gardening doesn't require a pond or natural water source either. It can consist of just a plastic tub, basically anything that can hold water. Many garden supply outlets can provide anything from the most basic setup to incredibly sophisticated water gardens consisting of waterfalls, pools, and streams (with or without bridges).
The very first thing to consider is your budget since that will place some limits on how ambitious a project you can undertake. Water gardening can get expensive if you decide on a big garden full of plants, rocks, fish, and lights. Next, you need to consider how much space you have available for a water garden. You probably won't want a 15-foot waterfall with a 200-foot stream and a half-acre pond in a suburban backyard. Be reasonable in what you choose as a first project, but also keep in mind the possibility of extending your water garden later. Size also affects the amount of maintenance your water garden will require.
If you plan to include fish and plants, you'll want to choose a location with sufficient direct sunlight. Remember that if the garden is located close to trees and bushes, leaves and debris will end up in the water and need to be cleaned out regularly.
When you choose aquatic plants, don't forget that the plants should, at most, cover about half of the water. Plants can be free-floating, submerged, or marginal (near or at the edges). The types you choose are up to you. Some may be good for their scent, some are simply beautiful, and some plants provide more oxygen than others which helps keep the pool healthy. As well as being pleasant to watch, fish will assist in keeping debris to a minimum and in insect control.
Algae can be a major difficulty in water gardening. Most frequently, the problem results from having too many nutrients in the water either from fish food or plant fertilizer. Proper construction, feeding and fertilizing will keep algae to a minimum. Chemicals can be used to reduce algae but they can also kill fish and plants.
Like everything else, garden pools need to be maintained throughout the year. And it really doesn't matter what size they are, even small ones will need care. However, with proper planning, you can balance the living and decorative features of a water garden both to simplify and minimize your maintenance tasks.
You can eliminate algae by reducing the nutrients that cause algal growth by cutting back on feeding and fertilizing, adding more plants, putting in a filter system, or replacing existing water with fresh water. Chemicals are generally not recommended since overuse can kill.
An intriguing new method of algae control is through the use of ultrasonic waves. The use of ultrasound to destroy algae can be traced back to the early experiments with sonar for detecting submarines when it was discovered that some microorganisms were destroyed by ultrasonic waves. Transducers developed to control algae will not harm humans, animals, fish or aquatic plants. (They can also be used for swimming pools).
If your garden lacks a natural continuous water supply, you have a situation much like an aquarium. You will need to monitor both water quality and water level. Keep in mind that in many locations, tap water contains chlorine and a large amount should not be directly added to water containing fish (and some plants). Allowing tap water to stand in an open container for at least 24 hours will normally eliminate the problem. Closed systems will require added water as the surface water evaporates. A large water garden that relies on tap water and which contains fish and plants should probably have small quantities of water added daily. For water gardens without circulating, aerated, or filtered water, maintaining water quality may be more difficult.
Still, water gardening really doesn't take any more time than regular gardening and could well take less time once you have it set up and have your maintenance tasks well organized. It is different, however, so while you may not be able to grow anything but weeds in the dirt, you might be superb at water gardening. As a hobby and a way to beautify your landscape, water gardening is excellent. And there's nothing quite like the sound and sight of water to calm and relax you after the stresses of modern life.
Don't be afraid to trim those flowering shrubs and trees that need it. Failure to prune is probably the biggest gardening mistake a person can make. I spent 20 years landscaping homes and businesses, and I watched people make the investment in my services, then they failed to prune when the plants needed it, and before you know it their landscape looked terrible.
If you make a mistake pruning, don't worry about it. It's like a bad haircut, it will grow out. Of course, use common sense and read the previous articles that I've written on pruning.
Along with summertime comes high humidity. High humidity can cause a lot of problems with the plants in your garden and around your house. One of the simple things you can do is don't water just before dark. Make sure your plants are nice and dry when you tuck them in for the night and you can cut down on the chance of fungus being a problem.
One of the more common fungi that I get asked about a lot is powdery mildew. This appears as a white film on the leaves of ornamental plants. Dogwoods and Purple Sandcherry are often the victims of powdery mildew. Powdery mildew isn't extremely harmful to the plants, it's just that the foliage is damaged, and little growth takes place once it sets in. Your local garden center will have a general fungicide you can spray if you'd like to try and control it. Usually, once the plant defoliates in the fall the plant is back to normal.
If you have Perennial Rye Grass in your lawn, and you probably do if you're in the north, you must be careful not to leave your grass wet at night. There is a fungus known as Pythium Blight that appears in very humid conditions. This fungus attacks and kills perennial ryegrasses. Here in the north most of our lawns are a blend of fescues, perennial ryes, and Kentucky Blue Grass.
If you have problems with Pythium blight you will lose the perennial ryegrass in large areas of your lawn, and even though the other grasses will still be there and fill in, your lawn will have areas that are much darker green than the rest of the lawn because you will then have concentrations of Kentucky Blue Grass.
You can see this fungus in the early morning. It looks like white cotton candy laying on top of your lawn. It usually appears along walks and driveways where the soil is wet if you have been watering. To prevent Pythium blight water as early in the day as possible.
Another nasty little blight that likes summertime is Fire Blight. Fire Blight attacks ornamentals, especially Apple trees, Crabapple trees, Cotoneasters, and Pyracantha. You know you have Fire Blight when a branch on one of your plants dies and turns almost red. The leaves usually hang on but turn reddish brown. The damage usually starts out near the end of the branch and works its way toward the main stem of the plant. There is little you can do except prune out the affected branch, cutting it as far back as possible.
Fire Blight is very contagious to plants so you should burn the branches you prune out. You should also dip or wash your pruning shears in rubbing alcohol after each cut to keep from spreading this deadly fungus.
Unfortunately, I've got one more summertime culprit to warn you about. It's a handy little fungus that grows in mulch. Actually, there are all kinds of fungi that tend to grow in mulches, and most of them are really disgusting looking. But this little gem is unique in the fact that as it grows it tends to swell. Then somehow it manages to explode, and it will spatter your house with tiny brown specks. The experts have appropriately named this one “Shotgun Fungus”. Isn't that a cute name?
These tiny little brown specks will fly as high as eight feet into the air, and once they stick to your house or windows, they stick like glue. I know that right now there are people hollering across the house at their spouse, “Hey, remember those brown specks all over the house? I know what they are. It's from the mulch!” Tell me I'm wrong, but I know I'm not.
A lot of people are victims of this nasty little fungus, but they don't know it. All they know is that there are tiny brown specks on the house that look like paint. So far they have blamed everything from spiders to aliens.
There's not a lot you can do to prevent this fungus. I have found that if you keep the mulch loose so air can circulate it is less likely to grow fungi. Don't just keep adding layer after layer to the mulch around your house. You should skip at least every other year and just loosen the mulch you already have down. If you loosen it and then rake it flat it will look like you've just mulched. Mulch is great, just don't let it get packed down hard. Loosen it up at least once a year.
The word "organic" may appear on packages of meat, cartons of milk or eggs, cheese and other single-ingredient foods. Certified organic requires the rejection of synthetic agrochemicals, irradiation and genetically engineered foods or ingredients. Literally, of course, the term is a redundancy: all food is composed of organic chemicals (complex chemicals containing carbon). Any materials used in the production or processing of organic food must be proven safe. Awareness is growing about the value of organic foods. But, whether the organic chicken or pesticide-free lettuce represents "healthier" alternatives has long been a subject for debate.
Organic farming is one of the fastest growing segments of the U.S. Gardening organically is much more than what you don't do. In fact, sales of organics have surged more than 20 percent each year in the past decade. In terms of a number of farms, acreage, and value of production, the organic food industry is growing at a rate of 20-30% per year. As commodity programs are eliminated, more farmers have discovered that organic production is a legitimate and economically viable alternative enterprise. The growth in the number of organic farmers has increased steadily, similar to the growth of the U.S.
In current organic production systems, growers are not permitted to use conventional synthetic organic fungicides in their disease management program. Non-organic milk comes from farms that are allowed to use genetically modified cattle feed, along with routine antibiotic treatments and synthetic pesticides. Arguments have long raged as to the effects these hormones and chemicals have on the bioproducts. Growth hormones in cows, pesticides on produce and antibiotics in poultry are among the reasons many Americans are turning to organic foods.
Organically raised animals may not be given growth hormones to or antibiotics for any reason. Producers are required to feed livestock agricultural feed products that are 100 percent organic, but farmers may also provide allowed vitamin and mineral supplements.
The US Department of Agriculture finally put in place a national system for labeling organic food. The new federal rule guarantees you, the consumer, organic products that are grown without toxic pesticides, herbicides, or fertilizers. Pesticides derived from natural sources (such as biological pesticides) may be used in producing organically grown food. Limitations in relation to which pesticides may or may not be used, present the organic grower with some unique and very demanding challenges. Food that is at least 70 percent organic will list the organic ingredients on the front of the package. More than 40 private organizations and state agencies (certifiers) currently certified organic food, but their standards for growing and labeling organic food may differ.
Even with these labeling rules in place, consumers should be prepared for some confusion when shopping for organic foods. For one thing, organic products are not uniformly labeled because many farmers using organic methods do not pursue certification at all. In addition, the language contained in seals, labels, and logos approved by organic certifiers may differ.
While consumers struggle with the fact that often, the availability of organic materials is limited when large quantities are needed. More and more people have come to appreciate the added dimensions of value and quality available in the organic marketplace.
There are many ways to make your house and lawn turn into a home. Every bit of careful touch you add will help your space feel more personal and inviting for your friends and family. As a landscape architect, one of my favorite ways to improve the look and feel of a home is through garden plants.
I love to encourage all of my clients to invest in some great garden plants when they are at work creating a lawn or renovating their lawn. I love garden plants for so many reasons, but the obvious reason is that they are beautiful. There is nothing better than spending time in a home and a yard that is filled with uniqueness and beauty. Planting a wide variety of garden plants is a great way to add much-needed beauty to the outside of a home. Even the most beautiful homes can look mediocre when there isn't a great lawn and garden to accompany them.
Another reason I encourage my clients to invest in garden plants for their home is so that they will have a reason to get outside and work the land with their hands. I believe that people take much more pride in a land that they have to work to cultivate. Our culture has lost something dear and precious since we stopped being a farming culture, and planting even the most simple arrangement of garden plants can be a great way to feel the pride of working the land again. Having to spend time working with garden plants is also an easy and fun way to get outside and get some exercise. Far too many people are stuck in their homes watching television or reading and just getting outside to tend garden plants can be a great way for them to get more active.
If you're looking to add garden plants to your lawn, then I'd suggest you grab a couple of easy to understand books on the topic and soak up all the knowledge you can about how to properly plant garden plants in your lawn. There is much to be learned about gardening, and taking time to get even the most basic knowledge will help you considerably when you are trying to plant the best garden plants for you.
Get to a local gardening shop and see what garden plants will go great on your lawn. And then begin the fun work of planting them and tending to their growth.
People choose balcony, patio, and courtyard gardening for many different reasons. Some are moving from a large house to smaller accommodation, some don’t want the hassle of a large property, and some chose to live in rental property to avoid the high cost of owning a home. Whatever the reason, this doesn’t mean we can’t garden. No space is too small for a small space garden. One plant in a container is a garden. In fact, ever more gardening options are available in terms of pots, half-barrels, window boxes, troughs, cast-iron planters, recycled materials – the list is unending with possibilities.
Planning a Small Space Garden
When planning your small space garden several steps are fundamental. The first consideration is to determine what purpose this space will serve. Do you want to grow vegetables, herbs, entertain family and friends, meditate, create a place of peace, healing, a memorial garden – the list is endless. Next, walk around your space and really look at what you have. Where are doors, sheds, permanent planters located? Is there any clutter? Clear out the clutter by asking yourself: ‘Do I love it? Have I used it in the past year?’ If it no longer serves you, turfs it out, paints it or fixes it, give it to somebody who needs it.
If possible, take a chair and sit down, move it around, and think about where the energy feels best for you. Wherever that is, place your seating such as a park bench, lounge, Muskoka chairs, dining furniture, swing, etc. Do you want a formal or informal setting? What features do you want? Features such as water, flowers, vegetables, herbs, wind chimes, wildlife, colour, etc. add the finishing touches to your small space garden. Finally, make a plan particularly if you are going to use large features such as a half-barrel. Once filled with the soil you will not want to be moving it.
Creating a Small Space Garden
Containers. Generally speaking natural materials such as wood, clay, stone, or cast iron in all their forms make better companions for plants. Remember that wet soil weighs a lot so if you garden on balcony weight restrictions may apply. Containers made from lighter weight materials such as fibreglass are ideal for roof or balcony gardens. Styles of containers include hanging baskets, wirework stands and baskets, wood window boxes, sinks, troughs, galvanized buckets, old shoes or boots, bathtubs, old tires, and all manner of recycled objects.
Scale. A scale is extremely important in small space gardening. For example, small plants look more balanced in small containers, large plants in large containers. I especially like the effect of vines growing on a trellis in half-barrels with smaller plants edging the container. In the half-barrels I use, I have grown many different vines but have found that the effect of scarlet runner pole beans (Phaseolus vulgaris) is really a knockout with their gorgeous red flowers and you can eat them too.
Microclimates. Which plants prefer which location? Choose plants according to the conditions suitable for their optimum growth. Plants such as begonia (Begonia x semperflorens), coleus (Coleus x hybridous), and Fuchsia (Fuchsia x hybrida) prefer shaded areas while geraniums (Pelargonium x hortorum), marigolds (Tagetes erecta), and petunia (Petunia x hybrida) prefer full sun. Wind can be a major factor and damage fragile plants. Choose plants that are wind tolerant such as many of the grasses; the sound of the rustling of the grasses as the wind blows through them is very pleasing to the ear.
Soil. I buy pre-mixed potting soil from the garden centres or shopping malls. These are generally lighter in weight to carry, sterilized to prevent weed seeds from germinating, and contain a lot of peat moss that helps loosen the soil so that it doesn’t compact in pots. I also buy organic soil that doesn’t have artificial chemicals added as I dump my pots of used soil into the garden where I grow vegetables.
Watering. Check daily as container plants often dry out more quickly. This is especially true if you are using clay pots. Make sure pots have drainage holes, as roots sitting in water will rot. When there has been excessive rain or water, empty saucers that are full. If you garden on a balcony sit plants on something to catch the water so that it doesn’t run down on your neighbours.
Fertiliser. Due to frequent watering, container plants require fertiliser on a more consistent basis then plants in the ground do. Use organic fertilisers such as blood meal, bone meal, or fish emulsion, particularly if the soil is going to be added to the garden at the end of the season, as chemical fertilisers harm the wildlife.
Function. When you are creating your small space garden you are actually designing an outdoor room. Keep in mind that this can be colour coordinated to appear as an extension of your home. I move my indoor plants outside for the summer (which they love) and design these areas as garden rooms.
Focal point. Create a focal point such as a large pot, tall plant or tree, colour, or a water feature. Perennial vines such as Virginia creeper (Parthenocissus quinquefolia) will grow in a large container and come back year after year. Create a sense of mystery by hiding a plant or ornament behind something else to give the pleasure of discovering it.
Colour. In a small space, use three colours such as pinks, blues, and whites; reds, oranges, and yellows; reds, whites, and blues; or reds, whites, and purples that provide continuity rather than too many colours which tend to be distracting. Cool colours make space appear bigger and brighter while intense colours shrink spaces. A white and green colour theme called a ‘moon garden’ is more formal and particularly at night is spectacular. Many white flowers are fragrant at night as well.
Lighting. I especially like the small Xmas lights hidden in plants and interwoven throughout a trellis with climbing vines. Uplighting with small spotlights can focus attention on a particular area for evening entertaining.
If you’re a gardener that has an unlimited supply of water, consider yourself lucky. There are many of us who live in drought zones where the garden and lawn watering rules are very constrictive to the healthy growth of gardens and plants. Many people just give up when they find out how few gallons of water they are permitted to use, but some of us have just found ways to cope with less water. There are many ways to optimize one's garden to conserve water while still keeping it lush.
Some of the ways include drip irrigation (the use of a pipe or hose with small holes to gradually seep into the roots of the plant), the placement of plants in groups of equal watering needs (to prevent wasting water on plants that don’t need it), and using compost or mulch to insulate the water and prevent drainage.
But one of the best ways to keep your garden alive during a drought is to take preventative measures. Occasionally a drought will be predicted far in advance, or those already experiencing a drought will be given a few weeks of heavy rain. When this occurs, you should take the opportunity to set up several rain barrels. Many people think this would be a time consuming, silly thing to do. But it can save you many gallons of water, and hardly requires any work.
Finding the barrels will probably be the hardest part. You can use your own garbage cans, or head to your home improvement store to get a few 55-gallon plastic drums. These can be expensive and difficult to transport, so keep that in mind before you go to the store. You will probably want to cover the top of the barrel with a screen of some sort to filter out any unwanted leaves or debris that might fall off the roof of your house.
Once you have your barrels ready, you’re faced with the decision of where to place them. Usually, during rainfall, there is one corner or segment of the house that rain tends to pour off of. If you are taking the simple approach to barrel placement, just place the barrel under all the places where you see large amounts of drips. However, while this might be the easiest way to place them, you won’t see very high volumes of rain in the barrels.
If you want to take a more complicated approach to placing the barrels, you should consider tweaking your gutter system a bit. If you remove each individual segment and place it at a very slight slant so that all the water is diverted to the nearest corner of the house, you can place a rain barrel at each corner. So essentially your entire house acts as a catcher for the rain, instead of just a few feet worth of shingles. This is how to maximize the amount of water your rain barrel will catch.
After a heavy rainfall, each individual barrel probably won’t see very much rain. If it looks like it won’t be raining more any time soon, it’s a good idea to empty each barrel into one main central barrel. Seal it and save it out of the way, for whenever you may need it. Then the next time it starts to rain, you’ll be able to quickly put all your catching barrels into place without having to lug around all the water you’ve accumulated so far.
The use of water barrels might sound like an antiquated idea. However, when you’re in the midst of a drought and you’re able to spare that extra couple of gallons for your garden, in addition, the city allotment, you’ll be grateful for every bit of time and money you spent on collecting all that rain. All it takes is a few trips out in the backyard every time it starts to sprinkle, and you’ll be a very happy gardener when water isn’t so abundant.
Metal garden furniture has come a long way from the days of the woven seats and backs. Aluminum and wrought iron garden furniture have a new look. You don't have to buy those flimsy lawn chairs and loungers that you grew up with anymore. Metal garden furniture has taken on a look of dignity and beauty. The aluminum line of the metal garden furniture is more enduring than it was in the past.
The braided aluminum line has a polished quality that the aluminum line of the metal garden furniture was lacking. The aluminum line of the metal garden furniture is sturdy and durable while retaining its lightweight quality. It is easily moved around. This metal garden furniture is not required to be stationary in one location. This allows you flexibility when planning a backyard affair. You may need to add room for additional seating or clear a floor area to accommodate dancing.
The colors of the cushions and the frame will beautify the décor of your patio, garden or lawn. There are pieces of metal garden furniture available in the aluminum line that will meet your every need such as the conversation sets, the dining sets, additional chairs, and tables, as well as hammocks and swings. The aluminum frames are rust proof making them weather resistant. There is little to no care required to maintain the dignified beauty and cleaning is as simple as spraying the furniture with a hose. The aluminum line of the metal garden furniture is a wonderful asset to any patio or backyard.
As with the aluminum line, the wrought iron and steel lines of the metal garden furniture have a look of dignity and grace. They differ from the aluminum line by their weight. The wrought iron and steel lines of metal garden furniture are made of a denser metal than the aluminum line adding to the look of sturdy durability. The flexibility of mobility is not an option with this furniture, but you have the comfort of security. The frames of the iron and steel lines of the metal garden furniture are mostly black, but the selection of colors for the cushions will add the polish to this graceful style of metal garden furniture. The array of piece and sets available in these lines of metal garden furniture is not lacking. Allowing you to furnish your patio, garden or backyard to its full potential.
There are the conversation sets, dining set, add-on chairs and tables, bars with chairs, and benches. Maintenance for the wrought iron and steel metal garden furniture is minimal. As always check with your retailers for any specific care or maintenance required to maintain the polish beauty of your furniture. Umbrellas are available to add to your sets to protect you and your guests for the heat of the afternoon sun. Wrought iron and steel metal garden furniture will be a timeless treasure that you and your family will enjoy for many years to come. It is available at your local home improvement stores, department stores, and discount department stores.
It's vital to start the process of having a hassle-free garden. This article gives you that first step and helps achieve some sound understanding of what you face as a weekend gardener. Our goal is to create a garden that practically takes care of itself.
Unlike my neighbor, Fred.
Fred never found a way to escape the prison of responsibilities and hard, never-ending work required by a high-maintenance garden.
If you want to avoid Fred's fate, you need to start by making a critical examination of the maintenance of your yard and garden.
Start by taking a stroll around your property and make note of how much time you take to tend to various areas.
• Which plants require the most care, right now?
• Are there areas that please you and take less care?
• Are there some areas that you love so much that no matter how much maintenance they take you'd not want to change them?
• Can you visualize any areas being scaled down in size, or that can be improved with a low-maintenance design or gardening technique?
• Where is the problem weeding area?
• Which is the most difficult mowing area of your lawn?
In my book: "The Weekend Gardener"- The Busy Persons' Guide To A Beautiful Backyard Garden, I present very specific ways to combat your problem areas as you think critically about the current maintenance problems you must take into account. Take this tour with a critical eye and a notebook. Make some notes to yourself about what you see, what you imagine, and what you are currently faced with.
As you do this preliminary overview, remember it is okay to consider what you "hate" to do in regards to gardening work. We want to get rid of these areas first and foremost.
Everyone has a different take on this subject. Some hate mowing the lawn, others actually enjoy the exercise and like getting out in the sun. Some find weeding tedious, others will enjoy the process of grabbing weeds by the fistful and yanking them forcefully out of the ground. I have a cousin who has actually been found to wander into neighbors yards yanking the critters up (much to the surprise and cheerful appreciation of his neighbors) after he had run out of them in his own yard.
So, part of your ‘yard tour' is to make note of the areas that require work; how you feel about each one, and listing which are particularly time-consuming.
Once you're done, take your list and make a check mark (!) next to those items that you intend to keep no matter how much maintenance they may require. Then put a question mark (?) Next to the ones you enjoy looking at, but are nonetheless high-maintenance and take too much work. Later you will discover timesaving techniques you can surely apply to many of these problem areas.
Now plan on making your aim to eliminate those areas left UNMARKED. You'll want low maintenance ways to turn these areas into sources of pleasure, instead of drudgery. However, you can't DO anything to lessen the strain until you first SEE the problems out there in your yard. So do this tour as a first step to achieve true joy and freedom in your gardening experience.
There are five problems that can arise when you are composting. All of the issues are relatively easy to troubleshoot and fix. During your routine monitoring of the pile keep a look out for signs of a problem and try some of the suggested solutions listed below.
If you see a swarm of flies around your compost bin chances are you have not put enough brown food (leaves, twigs, hay) on top of your kitchen scraps. The kitchen scraps are very inviting to fruit and house flies, make sure you don’t leave them exposed.
Your compost bin has a bad smell. The most likely cause is not enough air is getting through to all parts of the compost. Give the compost a good turning and add a bulky substance such as woodchips or sawdust. They are bulky and create pockets where the air can move freely.
If you find that your pile is very dry, add some moisture in the form of water. You should not soak the pile, just enough to get it wet. If the pile is continually drying outlook at other factors such as location and what you are adding – you may have to move the bin to a less sunny location or add more wet scraps (fruit and vegetable waste).
Your compost pile seems to be working (it is moist and warm) but only in spots. Either your pile is not large enough or you are not rotating it enough. Make sure you are regularly adding new scraps and are rotating the pile every second day.
Like the problem of flies, if you have pests visiting your pile you need to make sure you are covering all kitchen scraps thoroughly. Moreover, do not add any animal products such as meat or bones.
Tree planting near Austerfield (Photo credit: Wikipedia)
So you have decided to take up planting trees, but you don’t know when to plant them. Read on the topic here! In “Know When to Plant What: Find Your Average Last Spring Frost Date” by Cheryl Long, an article published in 2008, Long writes, “The key factor that should guide your decisions is your average last spring frost date. Most cool season crops, like cabbage, broccoli, lettuce and many others, can tolerate a light frost and will grow best when sown a couple weeks before your last spring frost.”
It is important to track the frost dates in your area in order to make sure your plants do not wither or freeze in spring’s transitioning weather. There are many websites that offer advice on the correct dates for optimum planting time depending on the plant. Most dates range from the end of March until the end of April. For instance, http://www.heirloomseeds.com/schedule.htm gives a detailed list of plants and vegetables that should be planted in specific times. Cheryl Long notes that “There are U.S. maps that show last frost dates, but it’s hard to find your exact local dates on them. Your best bet is the National Climatic Data Center. Choose your state and then locate the city nearest you, and it will show your average last spring (and first fall) frost dates, based upon weather data collected by the National Climatic Data Center from 1971 through 2000 from that location.”
According to Landscaping on About.com, “Planting trees when they're dormant is advisable since that's when handling them is least disruptive to them. When do they go dormant? In the Northern Hemisphere, they begin to enter dormancy at some point in the autumn and begin to leave it at some point in the spring.”
Therefore, planting is not just something to do in the springtime; it is something to plan ahead preferably in the fall time. Greenwood Nursery.com explains that there are some pre-planting steps to keep in mind. First is site conditions, “Before you plant, think about the characteristics of your site. Characteristics such as soil type, slope, accessibility, proximity to water, etc, will definitely affect the viability of the trees you plant.” The second aspect of pre-planting is the selection of tree species. “Different tree species have different tolerances to the environment, particularly in their formative years.
To improve the chances of having strong, healthy trees, think about conditions such as the average amount of annual rainfall, the dates of the first and last frost, and so on. Then select species that enjoy those particular conditions” And finally, Greenwood nursery.com reminds us to control weeds around the “to keep competing for vegetation at bay, use a herbicide suitable for use near the type of tree you plant. Reason? You're less likely to damage the delicate trunks and roots than if you were to use a hoe. Or the neighbor's mower as our reader discovered!”
Good luck with your spring planting adventures and may your trees flourish!
Why does partial shade play an important role in organic vegetable gardening? And how can such shade be done? And is it really vital for your product to grow?
For gardeners, they know that shade plays an important role in what they are doing as much as the sun. This is especially true if one is into organic gardening of vegetables. The exposure to sun and its need to be in shade still depends upon what plant you want as produce. But learning all about the plant and its needs first will lead a gardener for a better output.
Being one with nature, being in touch with your product, is the main responsibility of an organic farmer, in the first place. So before you might want to delve into this, you must first be ready to be patient and hardworking because of the holistic approach being used in such type of gardening, everything depends on the farmer, they have no one to turn to except for themselves and the natural environment.
Organic Horticulture
The word horticulture comes from two Latin words, hortus that means garden plant and cultura or culture. It is both an art and science of planting and producing vegetables, flowers, fruits and even ornamental plants.
Horticulture has five parts of study; floriculture for floral plants, landscape horticulture for landscape ornaments, pomology for fruits, postharvest physiology is about keeping the harvested produce fresh and how to prevent these from rotting quickly.
The fifth area of study for horticulture is olericulture, which you might be interested in if you are into vegetable gardening because this tackles the process from producing the crops to marketing such.
Partial Shade
You may know that a plant needs soil, sun, and water to be able to survive. But you must also be aware that it needs shade, especially the vegetables because not only one must protect it as a plant but must also care for it to produce a good harvest.
In organic vegetable gardening, by exposing the plants to a range of 30 to 50 percent of shade can actually lower the leaves' temperature by about 10 percent or even more. For the northern and coastal climates, 30 percent shade is recommendable while 47 to 50 percent in hot and summer-like places.
By doing what's stated above, vegetables like lettuce, arugula, mustard greens and mesclun mix would produce better qualities.
The shade also lessens the temperature of the soil by three to six degrees Fahrenheit. This will benefit vegetables such as cabbages, mustard greens, broccoli, chard, radishes, turnips, and spinach that grow in the soil. It is because these products will germinate better when the soil temperature is below 80 degrees Fahrenheit.
Shade Tent
You can also provide your plants with handmade tents. This will be most beneficial if you have a large produce and you can't attend to each plant one-by-one, placing cloth as shade at top of each one.
To do a shade tent, you would need sturdy plastic tubing that is about 1/2 or 3/4-inch in diameter. Cut this tubing into 6-foot in length, just enough for it to arch a foot length above your crops. For each arch that you've made, place a bamboo or rebar stakes, each one at about 18 inches. Put these in the ground at the sides of the plants' bed until about 10 inches of each of the stakes are visible. Now you can bow your tubing by sliding its ends at the stakes.
With the foundation ready, you can now place a shade cloth over the arches for it to cover the plants' bed. Make sure to clip the cloth at the tubing so that it will remain in place.
Remember, if a partial shade is not readily available when you are into organic vegetable gardening, make one by just doing the abovementioned procedure.
Yes, you are helping nature by doing organic gardening. But nature has a bigger scope than soil, plants, sunlight, water, and air. There may be good insects that will be beneficial for your organic garden. But there are certain pests that you have to be vigilant about in order to get rid of them while you still can.
If you are only starting this hobby or business, however, you'd like to put it, you may be wondering about the pests. How are you going to be able to get rid of them without turning to synthetic pesticides? The short and quick answer is that you buy an organic one. There are actually many brands that are available commercially. You just have to ask around what are the types that will work best in your location and with the kinds of greens that you are growing on your garden.
But before you start choosing the right pesticide, you must be fully aware what the problem really is. To do this, you must inspect your garden thoroughly. Take down notes. You can also take pictures if you are not so sure about the kind of pests that are pooling in your garden.
Then you can go to the store and detail to an expert the problems that you are having. This way, you will be given a brand that will best fit and solve the problems that you have in your garden.
The other way that you can do so that you won't have to turn to pesticides, even the organic type, is to do things manually. Yes, this is harder. But just consider this as a challenge that you need to overcome to help yourself become an expert.
If the plants are infested by unnecessary pests, what could be the problem? One root of the problem could be the plants themselves. They may be depressed or stressed. What have you done to them? This type of gardening means that you are to take things personally. You are being one with nature. So this succeeds on this, you've got to take things seriously.
What makes a plant depressed? You may not be spending enough time with it. It may sound weird, but talking to your plants or singing to them may help you with the whole process. Throughout your gardening trek, you should be able to familiarize yourself with all the plants in your garden. You have to know how to make your plants healthy, happy and productive.
If you have to pick out the pests manually, then do it. This can be done as long as there are only few that can be found in your garden. You must only resort to the pesticides once the situation becomes uncontrollable.
You can also add some insects and animals that will help you kill the pests. This way, you are still staying in touch with nature and helping in the process of the food chain. For example, a ladybug would eat up an aphid banquet. Frogs and lizards can also help you sort your problems with these pests.
Above everything else, whatever problem you may encounter in organic gardening, just think about nature. How are you going to solve things that you will still be able to help nature and be one with it?
Rix Dobbs shows the roots of a lettuce plant growing in a nutrient film technique hydroponic tube he built in Durham, North Carolina. (Photo credit: Wikipedia)
Hydroponics is a Latin term, which literally means “working water.” What it means to horticulture is the growing of plants without soil. Hydroponic gardening is an exciting field that offers solutions to several problems faced in the world of food production. For impoverished people who live in a terrain or climate inhospitable to agriculture, hydroponics offers a means of growing food. In areas where food is traditionally produced, but where fields are over crowded or stripped of their nutrients, hydroponics is a way food can be produced using a minimum of space and resources.
Hydroponic growth leads to an increase in production over traditional farming in two ways. For one, hydroponic gardening just plain saves space. Plants can be placed much more closely together than in traditional fields; as many as four times as many plants can be grown in the space using hydroponic techniques as opposed to traditional methods. Secondly, hydroponics eliminates many of the problems associated with traditional farming that leads to sickly, damaged, or wasted crops.
Because hydroponic growers produce their own nutrients mixes, it takes the guess work out of figuring out which plants will grow best in a field and what nutrients need to be added to the soil. The nutrient mixture is the right one for the plant, in the right ratios, every time. The fear of soil-based diseases is eliminated, because, of course, there is no soil. These two factors come together to make hydroponics an extremely efficient method of food production.
Hydroponics is also environmentally sound. The water consumption in hydroponic growing is significantly less than traditional growth methods; in many cases, hydroponic crops use a tenth of the water of equivalent traditional crops. Also, the water that is used is used more effectively; in hydroponics, weeds do not steal part of the crop’s water supply.
The benefits are not without their costs, however. The environmental good that hydroponics produces with its decreased water consumption is somewhat negated by the amount of energy needed to support hydroponic growing. Much hydroponic growing happens in greenhouses, where significant amounts of electricity are used trying to give the hydroponic plants all the light the need.
The electricity consumption is environmentally damaging and expensive, and expense is another area where hydroponics comes under the gun. The nutrient mixtures and growing mediums used can be very expensive. While research is happening to try and bring the costs down, and there are some promising leads, like the field of aquaponics, hydroponics is currently financially prohibitive for some.
There is a common misconception that hydroponics produces organic food. While it is possible to grow organic food through hydroponics, this is the exception and not the rule. Most growers used pesticides on their hydroponic crops. Though the pesticides used in hydroponics do not run-off and pollute the surrounding environment like the pesticides used on traditional fields, they are still on the plants themselves.
The field of hydroponics is filled with promise, and much research is being devoted to solving the concerns that currently stop more farmers from going hydroponic. Until these problems are solved, however, farmers and amateur gardeners alike will need to carefully weigh the pros and cons of hydroponics before making the leap to that style of growing.
